Category Chemistry

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO SHEAR A SHEEP?

Cutting or shaving the wool off of a sheep is called shearing. Shearing doesn’t usually hurt a sheep. It’s just like getting a haircut. However, shearing requires skill so that the sheep is shorn efficiently and quickly without causing cuts or injury to the sheep or shearer. Most sheep are sheared with electric shears or shearing machines. The fleece is removed in one piece.

Some sheep are sheared manually with scissors or hand blades. While some farmers shear their own sheep, many hire professional sheep shearers. In many countries, including the United States, there is a growing shortage of qualified sheep shearers. Many states hold annual sheep shearing schools.

A professional shearer can shear a sheep in less than 2 minutes. The world record is 37.9 seconds. The record was set in 2016 by Ivan Scott from Ireland. Scott set another record, shearing 867 lambs in just 9 hours. Matt Smith from New Zealand owns the record for shearing the most ewes, 731 ewes in 9 hours. The most Merino ewes sheared in 8 hours is 497, a record set by Lou Brown from New Zealand. The blade shearing record was set over 100 years ago when legendary shearer Jackie Howe sheared 321 sheep in 7 hours and 40 minutes.

In 1957, a New Zealander sheared a sheep in just 47 seconds!

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WHAT IS SILK MADE FROM?

Natural silk is spun as a thread by silk-worms. They use it to form a cocoon. Unlike other natural threads, the silk-worm’s thread is very long — up to one kilometre (0.62 miles). Traditionally made in Asia, silk was such a sought-after textile that the route from Europe to the East became known as the Great Silk Road.

Silk is made from Silkworms (known as Bombyx mori) and Bombyx mori eats mulberry leaves. The silkworm is the larva or caterpillar of the domestic silk moth, Bombyx mori’. Fine silk and Bombyx mori is interconnected worm or moth.

When mulberry leaves put forth their leaves – this is the time that these silkworms are born- these helpless worms feed on the leaves. In the silk manufacturing process, they are kept in a tray filled with carefully selected tender and succulent mulberry leaves for about 25-28 days. It is said that a worm eats about 10,000 times its body weight of mulberry leaves and increase their weight to almost 5000 times in this short span.

Sericulture refers to Rearing of silkworm for the production of silk. When it is fully grown, it climbs onto a twig in the natural environment. In sericulture, it is placed on a special frame. If you are growing it at home you will have to give it a bamboo/plastic/metal frame, for the larvae to weave his cocoon around it.

The worm starts to spins a cocoon around itself. This cocoon is made with a sticky substance that comes out of an opening in its underlip. This is made by mixing a fibroin protein compounds that come out of its salivary glands and another substance called sericin (silk gum) in its mouth.

As it comes out, this sticky substance solidifies when in contact with air into the silk fiber. In three days it makes thousands of meters of this fiber. For about 10-15 days the silkworm will be a pupa inside this self-made home. Then it undergoes metamorphosis into a furry winged moth.

The moth will eventually worm itself out of the cocoon – but this is not allowed to happen unless the moth is required to breed eggs. This will damage the silk fibers in the cocoon or cut it short, so these worms are killed by putting them in boiling water /oven. When the worms are put in boiling water the sticky sericin coating of the silkworm also dissolves.

Sometimes two silkworms will nest together forming a single cocoon producing fibers that are thick and thin – the fabric made from these fibers are called Dupioni silk Cocoons are sorted according to their color and texture. The single cocoon in carefully unraveled and the fiber is wound /reeled on a spool. Usually, about 6 filaments are reeled together to create a thread. The single strands of the thread may be doubled and twisted for strength.

This long thin fiber is silk with many impurities. The fibers are taken out and washed thoroughly to remove any residue/gum etc. The yarns are boiled in a soap solution to remove the natural silk gum or sericin. It has to undergo many washes and treatments before it is usable for weaving. Thus you get your silk filaments ready to be weaved into fabric.

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HOW ARE FABRICS PATTERNED?

There are two main ways of patterning fabrics. By using coloured threads in the knitting or weaving, patterns can be made in the fabric itself. This is a very easy way to create stripes and checks, and it is quite cheap to use lots of colours, so the resulting fabric can be very bright. Another method of patterning fabric is to print it, using special dyes. This may be done by big rollers or by squeezing dye through patterned screens. Since only one colour can be printed at a time, each additional colour adds to the cost.

Fabric patterns come in all kinds of colors, shapes, sizes, repeats, and schemes. That’s why picking the right fabric patterns—and mixing prints—can be tricky. So we called on a handful of our favorite designers to help us break down the basics behind some of the most popular fabric patterns out there. From chevron to polka dots and beyond, here’s everything you need to know about themost common fabric patterns. Once you know the names of these patterns and what defines each of them.

Basketweave

Designed to resemble the crisscross weave of a basket, basketweave patterns are either woven or printed onto a fabric to create a symmetrical effect. “As a traditional woven, a basketweave fabric can introduce warmth to a room to balance out more neutral and subdued tones,” says Ella Hall, founder of Stitchroom. “When used correctly, the handmade texture is a great contrast to a muted palette and can also complement a minimalist style.”

Brocade

“A typically shuttle-woven fabric most commonly made with silver or gold thread, brocade has a raised appearance similar to embroidery,” No surprise then that you’re most likely to find brocades in more traditionally designed space. “The ornamental features of this fabric pattern bring a rich and elegant touch to accentuate classic furniture pieces,” she adds.

Checkered

One of the most popular and instantly recognizable patterns on the market, checked, or checkered, fabrics feature a simple checkerboard-style design with alternating colored squares. “Checked fabric has traditionally worked well in farmhouse modern and country design, and while it might originate there, a more contemporary twist has recently brought the countryside to more urbanized spaces.” “This fabric trend is perfect for banquettes with high traffic trying to make a statement through its upholstery fabrication.”

Chevron

Marked by a pattern of zigzagging stripes, chevron fabrics have long been a favorite of designers looking to infuse contemporary flair into a subdued space. “Modern interpretations of the chevron motif have brought new life to the classic that can sometimes feel overwhelming.” “Try selecting a chevron with subtle tonal differences or a textured chevron to contribute to your sofa’s pillowscape.”

Damask

“Martha Stewart is a big fan of damask, and this rich-looking fabric has been used everywhere from English castles to Park Avenue apartments,” Okin says. “A reversible, print-heavy look, damask is typically filled with swirling patterns and looks beautiful in jewel tones. This look works well when executed in silks and taffetas in dramatic, grand rooms.”

Chinoiserie

Drawing from traditional Chinese motifs, chinoiserie style fabrics often feature elaborate scenes of florals, animals, pagodas, and children. “Chinoiserie is a romanticized print that adds a level of sophistication to upholstery,” Hall says. “Whether with curtains, chair upholstery, or throw pillows, chinoiserie fabrics always make a decorative statement.”

Flame Stitch

“Also known as bargello or a Florentine stitch, flame stitch needlework combines long, vertical stitches and bold colors into zigzagging peaks and valleys,” Okin says. “This look was very popular in the 1960s and has a psychedelic element to it, so it’s perfect for funky spaces with a retro vibe.”

Greek Key

“The Greek Key pattern is as old as time really, and it’s more traditional than anything I tend to use,” Roth says. “The pattern is made from a continuous line that repeatedly bends back on itself to create squared spirals. I think of it as a border pattern more than anything else and work well on curtains or bed linens.”

Houndstooth

“The name houndstooth comes from whoever invented the pattern, thinking the checks that make it up look like dog’s teeth, but I think they look more like little bugs,” Roth says. “In my opinion, the pattern is quite handsome and masculine, and it’s a strong accent in a room. I’d use it on a pillow or throw blanket in a study.”

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WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN KNITTING AND WEAVING?

Knitting is the process wherein thread – or sometimes yarn – is made into cloth and other crafts. It consists of stitches (or loops) of the material consecutively run together. Weaving, on the other hand, is the process in which two types of yarn or threads are interlaced together to form a fabric or cloth. The two types of threads run in different directions, with the warp threads running lengthwise and the weft threads running crosswise or horizontally.

In knitting, the yarn follows a course, or a path, forming well-proportioned loops over and under the yarn’s path. These oblique loops can be elongated easily from most directions, which give the end fabric more elasticity. In weaving, the threads are always straight and perpendicular to each other; they tend to run side by side.

The end fabric of weaving can usually be stretched in only one direction (except in fabrics like spandex), which means less elasticity compared to fabrics formed from knitting. The threads used in knitting are thicker than those used in weaving; knitted fabrics are usually bulkier, while those formed through weaving have more drape and flow resulting from the use of finer threads. In knitting, as each row is done, new loops are pulled through the existing loop. Stitches that are active are held by a needle until a new loop passes through them.

There are also different kinds of yarn and needles that can be used, and they result in products of various colors, textures, weight, and integrity. The loom-a device that holds the warp threads in place while the filling threads are woven through them– is the main equipment used in weaving.

In weaving, the two sets of threads are woven by being interlaced at right angles to each other. Weaving can also be done by hand or machine. The variety of woven products is also largely dependent on the thread colors and the sequence of the raising and lowering of warp threads that can result in different patterns. Both knitted and woven products have recently reached new heights in design and patterns with the advent of more complex but easily used computerized machines.Hand knitting has gone in and out of style several times since then, but many people still pick it up as a hobby. Some types of knitting practiced by manual knitters are flat knitting, circular knitting, and felting.

Compared to knitting, weaving seems to be a much older craft, as some findings have indicated that it has existed since the Palaeolithic era. The Bible also points out several instances of weaving being practiced by Egyptians. Unfortunately, in the modern world, hand weaving is already close to non-existent, as fabrics are mostly designed and created in factories. Some examples of weave structures are the plain, twill, and satin weaves. However, with computer generated interlacing, numerous other weave structures are available in our modern times.

Moreover, knitting can be done individually or in a group as a hobby, and it has also become a social activity. Its popularity has given birth to different knitting clubs formed by knitting enthusiasts who not only knit together, but share patterns, designs, and newly finished products with each other. Weaving is still recognized as a popular craft, but due to its complexity, most processes for clothing fabrics are done in factories with machines that make the procedure much faster and easier. That being said, do not expect to encounter weaving clubs composed of housewives getting together to share weaving patterns like they do in knitting clubs.

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WHAT IS SPINNING IN TEXTILES?

Threads from plants and animals are usually not more than a few centimetres long. To make a long, strong thread for weaving or knitting, they must be spun. A carding machine combs the fibres so that they are all lying in the same direction and form a loose rope. This rope is then gently drawn out into a thinner thread and twisted into yarn.

Spinning is the twisting techniques where the fiber is drawn out, twisted, and wound onto a bobbin.The yarn issuing from the drafting rollers passes through a thread-guide, round a traveller that is free to rotate around a ring, and then onto a tube or bobbin, which is carried on a spindle, the axis of which passes through a center of the ring. The spindle is driven (usually at an angular velocity that is either constant or changes only slowly) and the traveller is dragged around a ring by the loop of yarn passing round it. If the drafting rollers were stationary, the angular velocity of the traveller would be the same as that of the spindle and each revolution of the spindle would cause one turn of twist to be inserted in the loop of yarn between the roller nip and the traveller. In spinning, however, the yarn is continually issuing from the rollers of the drafting system and, under these circumstances, the angular velocity of the traveller is less than that of the spindle by an amount that is just sufficient to allow the yarn to be wound onto the bobbin at the same rate as that at which it issues from the drafting rollers.

Each revolution of the traveller now inserts one turn of twist into the loop of yarn between the roller nip and the traveller but, in equilibrium, the number of turns of twist in the loop of yarn remains constant as twisted yarn is passing through the traveller at a corresponding rate.

Artificial fibres are made by extruding a polymer through a spinneret into a medium where it hardens. Wet spinning (rayon) uses a coagulating medium. In dry spinning (acetate and triacetate), the polymer is contained in a solvent that evaporates in the heated exit chamber. In melt spinning (nylons and polyesters) the extruded polymer is cooled in gas or air and sets. All these fibres will be of great length, often kilometers long.

Natural fibres are from animals (sheep, goat, rabbit, silkworm), minerals (asbestos), or plants (cotton, flax, sisal). These vegetable fibres can come from the seed (cotton), the stem (known as bast fibres: flax, hemp, jute) or the leaf (sisal). Many processes are needed before a clean even staple is obtained. With the exception of silk, each of these fibres is short, only centimetres in length, and each has a rough surface that enables it to bond with similar staples.Artificial fibres can be processed as long fibres or batched and cut so they can be processed like a natural fibre.

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HOW ARE THREADS AND TEXTILES COLOURED?

Substances called dyes are used to colour threads and textiles. In the past, natural dyes were used, made mainly from plants. Onion skins, for example, give a soft, reddish colour. Most natural dyes fade gradually when washed or exposed to light, which can be very attractive. Many people like the faded colour of denim jeans, for example, dyed with a natural plant-based dye called indigo. Modern chemical dyes do not fade so easily. They give strong, bright colours. Either skeins of thread or finished fabrics may be dyed by passing them through a dye bath, then fixing the dye with other chemicals and drying the result.

Dyeing in textiles is a process in which color is transferred to a finished textile or textile material (like fibers and yarns) to add permanent and long-lasting color. It can be done by hand or by machine. Dyes can come as powders, crystals, pastes, or liquid dispersions and they dissolve completely in an aqueous solution like water. When the textile and the dye come into contact, the textile is completely saturated by the dye and colored.

But what’s the difference between paint and dye? Paint is a complex substance, and when you use it, you’re usually coating the surface of something. Unlike paint, dyes actually change the crystal structure of substances. The details involve a long chemistry discussion, but what you really need to understand is that dyes are more saturating and more permanent. This is important because you want the fabric color to last through many wearings and washings. And yes, most dyed textile material is used to make clothing.

Humans have been dyeing textiles for a very, very long time, and in fact, scholars find early mention of dyeing textiles as far back as 2600 BCE! Dyeing can be done at any stage of the manufacturing process. Makers don’t have to wait until the whole cloth has been made in order to dye it.

Before we discuss some dye types, you should know that there are many different types of dyes and we’re only going to discuss a few of them. Now, let’s review two primary categories before moving on to dye types. Natural dyes come from sources like plants, minerals, and animals. They have a long history, but aren’t used much for commercial textiles anymore. You’ll find artists and craftspeople using them for hand-made products and for traditional crafts. Synthetic dyes are made in a laboratory, and the chemicals are often derived from sources like coal tar or petroleum-based substances.

Basic dye dissolves in water and requires a mordant. A mordant is a chemical that forms a bond with the dye to make it insoluble, which means the color stays on the textile when it’s rinsed following dyeing. This process tends to be used with fabrics like nylon and polyester. Direct dyes, on the other hand, don’t require a mordant, and are used to dye natural fibers like wool, cotton, and silk. Then, there are vat dyes, made of materials like indigo. Indigo is a plant that provides a deep blue color and is one of the oldest natural dyes. Substances used in vat dyes must be treated with a liquid alkaline substance (something that reduces acid) to allow them to be used as a dye.

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